Sunday, December 31, 2006

Martinis, Pressed Cloth Napkins, and Wings

Buffalo Wings with creamy blue cheese dressing , $7.25
Perry’s, Union Street

Buffalo wings at Perry's San FranciscoAh… Union Street. Twinkling lights, gelled hair, and perky breasts in tight sweaters. When The Nibbler needs to feel sophisticated, he heads north for some window shopping, and never hesitates to stop into Perry’s some Buffalo wings served by a neck-tied waiter.

Buffalo’s own Anchor Bar would be proud. Nothing experimental here, and they do the classic recipe pretty well. A pleasant accoutrement to the dark wood, nostalgic photos, and efficient grown men behind the bar.

Perry’s advantage is spice control. Time and time again, The Nibbler is let down by standard-issue wings that are either childishly sweet (like cheap ketchup) or needlessly punishing in their heat (like an amateur Bloody Mary). Perry’s rich flavor delivers a kick that tingles but never burns.

That said, you navigate a bit too much gristle and fight a bit too much drip (nothing on the shirt, but grease slides down the hand to the wrist). And the sauce, while well balanced, is a bit expected. Fortunately it’s enough to please the crowd: from the well-heeled older couple by the window, to the neighborhood gadfly interrupting people at the bar, to the squeaky-voiced gossip teams in back.

The Nibbler's rankings for Perry's San Francisco
Buffalo wings at Perry's San Francisco

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